The Saint-Péray appellation, situated in the Northern Rhône, may be small, but it consistently delivers excellent, low-acid, dry white wines that offer exceptional value for money.
Understanding Saint-Péray can be likened to viewing it from multiple angles: Is it the white counterpart of Cornas? Valence’s local gem The Northern Rhône’s softer side in white wines A former sparkling wine region adapting to climate change by producing still wines? Or a historical vineyard that, despite its small size and proximity to urban areas, maintains its reputation for quality?
Saint-Péray shares some similarities with Cornas, despite its unique character. When standing on the granite slopes of Cornas and looking southward, one can observe the dramatic, partly concealed amphitheatre of Saint-Péray, nestled between the steep Ardèche hills to the west and the Crussol ridge, crowned by its ruined château, overlooking the river to the east. While the two appellations differ in topography and exposure (hence, reds in Cornas and whites in Saint-Péray), they share certain soil elements, including granite sands. Saint-Péray, however, presents a geological complexity with limestone in Crussol and its slopes, along with loess, robust clays, and traditional cobblestone terraces within the appellation.
Cornas primarily relies on one grape variety (Syrah), while Saint-Péray offers two: Marsanne and Roussanne. Although Marsanne is more abundant, Roussanne’s aromatic lift and glycerous allure can enhance the occasionally stodgy Marsanne, and vice versa. Appellation rules permit the use of both varieties individually if desired, a sensible approach.
Saint-Péray’s vineyards face ongoing encroachment from Valence’s urban expansion, necessitating a steadfast defense. Fortunately, the quality discovered in the tasting, along with the fact that the best Saint-Péray wines (such as those from Robert and Gripa) currently retail for approximately €30 per bottle, indicates a robust defense. The term “soft white underbelly” and descriptors in our notes should provide guidance to those who have yet to taste these wines. Saint-Péray lacks the austerity of wines from side valleys in Saint-Joseph but offers more aromatic subtlety and finesse than white Crozes-Hermitage, which is often broader and occasionally less vibrant. The best Saint-Péray wines exhibit outstanding potential and can rival whites from the more easterly loess-soiled sectors of Hermitage, though purists of the appellation system may raise objections. Remarkably, some exceptional wines, like those from Yves Cuilleron, are available for around €15 a bottle, highlighting the appealing value of Saint-Péray white wines.
Saint-Péray’s typically low acidity may raise questions about its historical identity as a sparkling wine region (still permitted today, although not included in our tasting). However, neighboring Diois wines, southeast of Valence, also tend to sparkle. The shift toward still wines appears to reflect contemporary taste preferences rather than climate change. Saint-Péray is also evolving in line with the broader trend in the Northern Rhône, moving from a region where blending dominated to one where single-parcel wines (similar to Burgundy-style parcellaires) are gaining prominence.
Historically, Saint-Péray had its champions, including Napoleon, who was stationed in Valence, and Richard Wagner, who sought its sparkling version. References to Saint-Péray’s still wines can be traced back to Pliny and Plutarch, a testament to the region’s longstanding viticultural significance. Even after two millennia, these wines continue to captivate and endure due to their quality.
