Have England’s winemakers lost their sparkle?

by the_corkreporter

I found an interesting article on ft.com about the struggle of English winemakers.

https://www.ft.com/content/1d298c2c-27ef-4907-a04e-9961114da19e

Not only does Brexit have an effect, but also the high labour prices, inflation, and rising living costs. The cost of a pallet of wines depends on various factors, like alcohol content, and the higher costs of duty have a massive impact on prices for hotels, restaurants, and consumers.

On the other hand, English wine producers, in my opinion, see themselves in a better position than they are. I can understand that English sparkling producers compare themselves to champagne houses, and I can understand the “hype” about English sparkling wines. I like English sparkling wines and love serving and pairing them with food. The “big BUT” I have is that the price I pay for English wines or sparkling wines is nowadays nearly the same as the price I pay for Burgundy or Champagne.

Viniculture in Europe has had a place in the society and life of the society for hundreds of years. English viniculture appeared in England around 100 years ago. may some exceptions with estates like Nyetimber.

The genetic material of the vines has adapted to the climate in their surroundings over the centuries. Therefore, it is a fallacy to believe that you will get the same results and wines if you bring the vines or clones from other countries to England and grow them.

Wine is not Coca-Cola or other processed drinks. Terroir, weather, microclimate, soil types, and not to forget the human factor in the vineyards and cellar make an impact on the final result. To create a “taste” is limited and most of the time wanted. Champagne on the “Brand level” is different, but the majority of the winemakers want a wine that reflects the terroir or vintage, e.g.

I like to explore wine I don’t know; I like that the winemaker makes a difference. This is for me the beauty of wine. I don’t like wines that have always the same taste. My impression is that the wine industry wants a “product” that satisfies everybody, producing a mass product. Winemakers should be proud of their wines, their heritage, and their uniqueness. Then the consumer is willing to pay a higher price and not a sparkling wine or wine that tastes like Champagne, Burgundy, or Riesling from Germany.

In England in particular, the focus should be on creating the basis for becoming a wine-producing nation, making its wines recognizable and not copying other types of wine. This will certainly take a long time. If we look at this topic again in 20 years, then perhaps I can understand this “hype“.

The corkreporter