Adi Badenhorst, who served as Rustenberg’s winemaker until a recent departure, made a bold move to establish his own winery, christened AA Badenhorst Family Wines. Nestled on a sprawling 60-hectare estate, encompassing 28 hectares of vineyards, this picturesque domain is perched on the Malmesbury side of the majestic Paardeberg Mountain. In a partnership with his cousin, Badenhorst has assumed ownership of this property for a number of years now. Within the confines of his vineyard, he crafts a quartet of distinctive wines: two red varietals and two white varietals, the latter benefiting from a strategic collaboration with a neighbouring vineyard to supplement his own.
Badenhorst, the consummate showman, possesses a remarkable penchant for self-deprecation. His unique charm lies in his unabashed boasting of his winemaking operation’s simplicity, characterized by a dearth of modern winery equipment and a predilection for rudimentary facilities. However, behind this façade of rusticity, one discerns a meticulously thought-out approach to winemaking, underscored by a deliberate avoidance of sophisticated manipulations. This philosophy extends even to the label design, an artful homage to a bygone era.
In describing his winemaking pursuits, Badenhorst humbly refers to them as a hobby. He elaborates, “I sell grapes and have a very old winery last used in the 1950s,” a testament to his commitment to tradition. His winemaking enclave boasts aged concrete tanks and venerable wooden fermenters, attesting to the enduring legacy of vinification techniques of yesteryears. Notably, his winemaking process eschews the common practices of crushing or destemming, a departure from the convention that applies to both white and red wine production.
The vineyard’s distinguishing feature is its soil composition, predominantly rich in granite. Adi Badenhorst expounds, “On Paardeberg, there are six different types of granite, and we have three here,” shedding light on the subtle geological diversity that lies beneath the surface. While superficially similar, these granite varieties harbour distinct forms of bedrock degradation. Granite’s inherent quality of imparting freshness to wines infuses his vinous creations with a unique and invigorating character.
An intriguing facet of Badenhorst’s winemaking philosophy is his decision to forgo a barrel selection process for his premium wines. He ardently believes that the imperfections encountered during the barrel ageing phase are integral to bestowing character upon the final wine. Moreover, he champions a natural winemaking ethos, emphasizing, “We don’t want anything other than the grape in here.” His red wines undergo an extended skin contact period of up to six months, a post-fermentation maceration that Adi describes as a journey through “hectic” stages. Unfazed by the prospect of alcohol-extracting seed tannins, he reveres seed tannins as a magnificent element, deeming them the most comprehensive and enduring form of tannin in the vinous world. This commitment to embracing the inherent qualities of the grape, coupled with an unwavering dedication to authenticity, underscores Adi Badenhorst’s remarkable journey as a vintner on the quest for timeless and expressive wines.
Address
Jakkalsfontein Road
Malmesbury 7300
South Africa
THE WINES
2009 Secateurs white AA Badenhorst Family
Made in concrete tanks, this is a Chenin Blanc using Adi’s grapes and those from a neighbour. Beautifully focused with some floral overtones to the densely textured fruit, with notes of cream, toast, herbs and straw. Just lovely and a bit of a bargain.
90 Corked Points (£8.50 Swig)
2007 Secateur Red AA Badenhorst Family
Fresh and focused with nice cherry and plum fruit. Stylish, pure and quite elegant.
89 Corked Points (£9.50 Swig)
2007 White AA Badenhorst Family
A blend of Roussanne (70%), Grenache Blanc, Viognier, Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc, pressed into old vats. This is bright and quite taut with nice lemony herby complexity and good freshness. There’s also some nutty, straw-like savouriness. Long finish: taut and quite serious.
92 Corked Points (£22 Swig)
2006 Red AA Badenhorst Family
A blend of Shiraz (92%), Mourvèdre and Cinsault, whole bunch fermented and left for six months on skins before pressing. Intense, meaty and savoury with lovely complex spiciness. Robust but complex nose is thrilling. The palate is profound: long, spicy, dense, characterful and with fresh acidity. A wine that manages to be both robust and elegant at the same time.
96 Corked Points (£22 Swig)
