A quiet battle is brewing in the English wine world—one that is not about grapes or weather, but about the words on the label. As more and more bottles from Kent to Cornwall find their way onto wine lists around the world, the question arises: How do we define what makes English wine English wine?
Currently, producers rely on a classification system known as “protected designation of origin” (PDO) and “protected geographical indication” (PGI). These systems, originally introduced by the European Union, were intended to provide quality assurance and awareness of origin—think Champagne or Rioja. But does this system really work for our young and developing wine industry as the UK goes its own way after Brexit?
From EU draft to British bureaucracy
Let’s take a look back. Before Brexit, British wines – both English and Welsh – were subject to EU geographical indications. These were intended to protect traditional methods and preserve authenticity. A PDO requires that everything – from viticulture to bottling – be carried out within a defined area using approved methods and grape varieties. A PGI, on the other hand, offers a little more leeway.
After Brexit, the UK retained the same structure, which is now administered by DEFRA (Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs). So we have our own system for geographical indications, but it is essentially the same framework – just with a new address on the paperwork.
If a producer wants to enjoy protection in both the United Kingdom and the EU, they must now apply for both systems separately. This is not just a formality, but a strategic decision for any winery that wants to tap into international markets.
Where do we stand now? The current situation with PDO and PGI.
What do these designations actually look like in the United Kingdom today?
English wine PDO
This is the most comprehensive and widespread PDO. It covers still and sparkling wines made entirely from grapes grown in England. Sparkling wines must be produced using the traditional method with a second fermentation in the bottle. Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Bacchus are the stars here. It is a solid foundation – but also quite rigid.
English Regional Wine PGI
This is the more flexible version of the PDO. It allows for a greater variety of grape varieties and styles – ideal for producers experimenting with new grape varieties or techniques. It can be seen as a home for creative winemakers who may not fit into the traditional mold.
Sussex PDO
Introduced in 2022, this designation is the UK’s first regional PDO. It applies exclusively to traditionally produced sparkling wines from East or West Sussex, with very specific regulations regarding grape varieties, yields, and maturation. Some welcomed it as the UK’s answer to Champagne. Others fear that it focuses more on branding than content, creating barriers in a young and still-developing wine scene.
Darnibole PDO
This designation is unique. It applies to a single vineyard in Cornwall—Darnibole, which belongs to Camel Valley. The PDO covers only Bacchus-based still wines grown on this particular plot of land. It is the only PDO in the UK that refers to a single location, and while this is a fascinating step towards terroir-oriented recognition, it also raises questions: Is this a meaningful distinction or a microeconomic marketing ploy?
Welsh Wine PDO & PGI
Yes, Wales also has its own PDO and PGI. The Welsh Wine PDO protects wines made exclusively from grapes grown in Wales. The Welsh Regional Wine PGI is broader in scope and allows hybrids and less traditional grape varieties – a nod to the cooler climate and experimental nature of Welsh viticulture. Both are still relatively unknown but growing steadily.
The bigger question: does this system fit with our history?
There is tension in the air. On paper, these classifications look neat—official, protected, and promising in terms of quality. But English and Welsh wine are not like Burgundy or Barolo. Our industry is young, fast-moving, and still learning what it wants to be. We don’t have centuries-old traditions or strictly defined subregions. What we do have is energy, innovation, and climate.
Winemakers across the country are experimenting with new styles—pet-nats, skin contact, low-intervention wines, hybrids suited to wetter weather. Many of these don’t quite fit into the PDO box. And if they don’t qualify for PDO, some consumers might assume they are inferior wines.
This system protects names, but does it also promote progress? Are we creating designations that reflect actual regional identity – or are we just filling out labels for bureaucratic reasons?
Time to rethink
What English and Welsh wines really need is not more acronyms, but a classification system that grows with them. A system that reflects the energy and creativity that characterizes our vineyards today. A framework that promotes quality and transparency without hindering innovation.
That could mean regional typicity, yes – but based on genuine, long-term studies of soils, microclimates, and styles, not just district boundaries or clever branding. It could also mean building a system that rewards craftsmanship and authenticity, even when the winemaker dares to think outside the box.
In Germany, there are effectively two parallel recognized systems: the wine law system, which has been in place since 1971, and the VDP system, which is based on a pyramid (Grosses Gewaechs (location), Erste Lage, Ort, and Guts Wein).
PDOs should mean something. But they should not be a straitjacket.
Final thought
As English and Welsh wines begin to develop their own identity, we face a decision: Do we stick with a model adopted from the continent, or do we create something genuinely British – flexible, down-to-earth, and forward-looking?
