High on the majestic Monte Bello Ridge, overlooking the sprawling Silicon Valley, lies a legendary vineyard that has carved its place in California’s winemaking history – Ridge Monte Bello. This remarkable winery has been shaped by the visionary efforts of two individuals: Osea Perrone, an Italian immigrant who first planted the vineyard in 1886, and Paul Draper, who joined Ridge in 1969 and played a pivotal role in its revival. As the winery celebrates its 60th anniversary since its renaissance in 1962, it is an opportune time to delve into the rich tapestry of its past and explore the profound influence it has had on the world of wine.
A Journey to the Summit
To truly understand Ridge Monte Bello’s unique location and heritage, we must turn back the pages of time to the late 19th century. Osea Perrone, inspired by his Italian roots, sought to establish a vineyard on the mountaintop, following the tradition of planting vineyards in elevated regions. With great determination, Perrone built terraces, planted vines, and crafted a limestone cellar that stands to this day. As the vineyard gained prominence, opera stars from San Francisco made their arduous journey to the winery, traversing a train ride to Palo Alto and a horse-drawn carriage up the mountain. These luminaries reveled in the beauty of the surroundings, feasting, enjoying the wines, and filling the air with their melodious voices.
Paul Draper and the Pursuit of Natural Winemaking
Paul Draper, a self-taught winemaker, became an integral part of Ridge’s story when he joined the winery in 1969. Draper’s journey into winemaking began on a farm in Illinois, followed by his studies at Stanford University and experiences in Italy, France, and Chile. Drawing inspiration from the principles of natural winemaking, Draper embraced non-interventionist practices that focused on the use of native yeast, gentle grape pressing, and minimal additives. His commitment to pre-industrial winemaking techniques paid off handsomely when the 1971 Ridge Monte Bello Cabernet Sauvignon achieved a remarkable fifth place in the prestigious “Judgment of Paris” wine tasting, solidifying Ridge’s reputation as a producer of world-class wines.
Tasting Battles and Samurai’s Palate
As Ridge Vineyards gained recognition, it caught the attention of Otsuka Pharmaceutical, a Japanese company that acquired the winery in 1986. This union opened doors to new opportunities, including a memorable encounter between Paul Draper and a samurai with an impeccable palate for Bordeaux wines. The samurai initially expressed skepticism about the finesse of California wines compared to their Bordeaux counterparts. In a blind tasting organized by Draper, the samurai had the chance to experience the 1970 Ridge Monte Bello alongside a Chateau Latour. To everyone’s astonishment, the samurai declared Ridge Monte Bello a great wine, thus forging a lasting friendship between the two.
Transparency and the Fight for Ingredient Labeling
Transparency has always been a core value for Ridge Vineyards, prompting Paul Draper to seek the inclusion of ingredients on wine labels. While initially denied by the TTB (Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau), Draper’s perseverance paid off, and in 2011, Ridge became one of the first wineries to list ingredients on their labels. The inclusion of ingredients, such as hand-harvested organically grown grapes, indigenous yeast, and minimal sulfur dioxide, exemplifies Ridge’s commitment to openness and honest winemaking practices. Although Ridge has led the way in this regard, few other wineries in the United States have followed suit, despite growing calls for ingredient transparency from both the Biden administration and groups in the European Union.
Nurturing the Vineyards in the Face of Climate Change
As the world grapples with the challenges posed by climate change, Ridge Vineyards has taken proactive measures to mitigate its impact. Draper and his team have closely studied the effects of global warming and have implemented adaptive strategies in their vineyards. Through careful orientation of the vines and reduced leaf pulling, Ridge aims to provide optimal shade to the grape clusters. These measures have helped maintain the unique character of the wines despite the changing climatic conditions. Furthermore, Ridge has embraced organic farming practices and boasts the largest amount of organically certified vineyards in the Santa Cruz Mountains and Sonoma County. The winery’s commitment to sustainable viticulture and reducing its carbon footprint aligns with its belief that top-quality vineyards are the cornerstone of winemaking excellence.
A Legacy of Passion, Innovation, and Terroir
Ridge Monte Bello stands as a testament to the enduring power of passion, innovation, and the influence of terroir in winemaking. From its humble origins on a mountaintop to its pivotal role in reshaping the California wine landscape, Ridge has exemplified a commitment to crafting wines that reflect the unique character of their vineyards. Paul Draper’s unwavering dedication to natural winemaking and transparency has set a precedent for excellence and honesty in the industry. As Ridge Monte Bello enters its seventh decade, it continues to be a beacon of inspiration for winemakers and wine enthusiasts alike, reminding us of the profound connections between the land, the grapes, and the stories that unfold in every bottle of wine.
