Primitivo, a captivating black-skinned wine grape variety, has captured the hearts of wine enthusiasts worldwide with its rich history and diverse expressions. Originating in the ancient wine regions of Europe, Primitivo’s journey encompasses multiple countries and climates, resulting in a fascinating array of wines. This essay delves into the intriguing history of Primitivo, explores its cultivation across different countries, and highlights the unique characteristics of the wines it produces.
Part I: The Ancient Origins
Early Domestication and Spread of Vitis vinifera The story of Primitivo begins with the domestication of Vitis vinifera in the Caucasus region around 6000 BCE, marking the dawn of winemaking. From the Caucasus, viticulture spread to the Mediterranean and its surrounding regions, including Croatia, which played a significant role in Primitivo’s history.
Croatia: The Cradle of Primitivo Archaeological evidence reveals that Croatia once boasted several indigenous grape varieties closely related to Primitivo, forming the foundation of its wine industry in the 19th century. This diversity indicates that grapes similar to Primitivo have been cultivated in Croatia longer than anywhere else. However, this rich heritage was nearly wiped out by the devastating phylloxera epidemic of the late 19th century, leaving only a few remaining vines of the locally-known “Crljenak Kaštelanski.”
Part II: The Italian Connection
Primitivo’s Introduction to Apulia In the 18th century, Primitivo found its way to the Apulia region in Italy, where it was initially introduced by Don Francesco Filippo Indellicati, the priest of the church at Gioia del Colle near Bari. An early-ripening clone of the Zagarese variety was selected, and this clone quickly gained popularity, spreading throughout northern Apulia.
The Rise of Primitivo in Italy Primitivo became a vital part of the Apulian wine scene, earning its name from the terms “primativus” or “primaticcio,” highlighting its propensity to ripen earlier than other grape varieties. By the 1870s, the term “Primitivo” was officially documented in Italian governmental publications. Although initially considered a distinct variety, it was later recognized as the same grape as Zinfandel, thanks to DNA analysis.
Part III: Zinfandel and the United States
Zinfandel’s American Journey Zinfandel’s entry into the United States traces back to the mid-19th century, possibly via the Imperial Nursery in Vienna, Austria. The grape was imported to Long Island, New York, by horticulturist George Gibbs, and it was later distributed and cultivated in various regions. Initially known as “Black Zinfardel of Hungary” and “Black St. Peters,” Zinfandel’s identity was eventually confirmed, and it gained popularity, becoming the most widespread grape variety in California by the end of the 19th century.
Primitivo and Zinfandel: The Genetic Connection A pivotal moment in the history of Primitivo and Zinfandel occurred when scientists discovered their genetic equivalence through DNA analysis. This revelation connected the two grape varieties, proving that Primitivo and Zinfandel were indeed the same grape.
Part IV: Primitivo Across Different Countries
Italy: Primitivo in Apulia and Beyond Primitivo remains an essential grape variety in Apulia, Italy, where it thrives in the Mediterranean climate. Winemakers craft a diverse range of wines, from robust reds with blackberry and spice notes to refreshing rosés. The Primitivo di Manduria DOCG and Salice Salentino DOC are notable appellations known for producing exceptional Primitivo wines.
Croatia: Rediscovering Crljenak Kaštelanski Croatia’s link to Primitivo is rediscovered through Crljenak Kaštelanski, a local grape variety that genetic analysis confirms as being identical to Primitivo. The revival of Crljenak Kaštelanski represents a reconnection to the grape’s ancient roots, and Croatian winemakers embrace its potential to produce wines with unique character and identity.
Montenegro: Kratošija and Its Primitivo Connection In Montenegro, Kratošija, a grape variety traditionally grown in the region, is also revealed to be genetically equivalent to Primitivo. This discovery further reinforces the interconnectedness of grape varieties across different countries.
Part V: The Diversity of Primitivo Wines
Primitivo in California: Zinfandel and Beyond In the United States, Primitivo goes by the name Zinfandel, and California is the primary region for its cultivation. The state’s diverse terroirs yield a wide array of Zinfandel wines, from full-bodied and tannic to lighter, fruit-forward expressions. Napa Valley, Sonoma County, and Paso Robles are renowned regions for their Zinfandel production.
The Global Influence of Primitivo Beyond Italy, Croatia, and the United States, Primitivo has started to gain recognition in other wine-producing regions worldwide. Countries like Australia, Chile, and South Africa have seen increased plantings of Primitivo, demonstrating its versatility and adaptability to different climates.
Conclusion
Primitivo’s journey through history, from its ancient roots in Europe to its newfound prominence across the globe, is a testament to the resilience and appeal of this distinguished grape variety. Whether it goes by the name Primitivo in Italy, Crljenak Kaštelanski in Croatia, or Zinfandel in the United States, the grape’s genetic connections have transcended borders, linking wine cultures and enriching the world of winemaking. From robust reds to refreshing rosés, Primitivo wines continue to entice wine enthusiasts with their captivating character and diversity, promising a promising future filled with new discoveries and cherished traditions.
