As one embarks on a journey along the picturesque D2 route, heading towards the revered Medoc region in Bordeaux, a prominent landmark emerges just after Chateau La Lagune – Chateau Cantemerle. Not only is Chateau Cantemerle a renowned name in Bordeaux, but it also holds the distinction of being one of the region’s oldest estates, with historical records dating back to the 12th century.
The existence of these ancient documents owes much to the meticulous record-keeping of the monks residing in the La Sauve Majeur Abbey. These devoted monks diligently chronicled all the affairs within their monastic community, providing us with glimpses into the past. It was from these records that the estate derived its name, owing its heritage to the Lords of Cantemerle. However, it wasn’t until 1340 that Ponset de Cantemerle officially bestowed the estate with its present name.
Ponset de Cantemerle marked a significant milestone in the estate’s history as he became the first individual to cultivate its vineyards. In an era when most of the land was devoted to wheat cultivation, this shift towards viticulture signified a pivotal change. By the 16th century, Chateau Cantemerle had wholeheartedly embraced wine production.
In the mid-19th century, a dispute arose when Pierre Chadeuil, the new proprietor of Chateau Pibran, a neighboring vineyard in Pauillac, decided to label his wines as “Chadeuil Cantemerle Chateau Pibran.” His claim was based on Cantemerle’s association not just with the private estate of the Villeneuve family but with all the surrounding lands on the Left Bank. However, Madame Villeneuve-Durfort, the owner of Cantemerle, vehemently disagreed.
Madame Villeneuve-Durfort produced historical documents from the 1570s, demonstrating the Villeneuve family’s ownership of the estate. She successfully refuted Chadeuil’s claims, forcing him to pay damages and cover the trial’s expenses. Furthermore, he was compelled to change the name of his wine. It was clear that Madame Villeneuve-Durfort was a formidable owner who fiercely defended her estate’s legacy.
In 1855, during the iconic classification of the Medoc, Chateau Cantemerle faced an unusual omission from the list of classed chateaux. Madame Villeneuve-Durfort, ever determined, campaigned vigorously for the reinstatement of her beloved Chateau Cantemerle into the classification. This tale became the talk of the town at the time.
In essence, until 1853, Madame Villeneuve-Durfort sold all her wine directly. It was only in 1854 that her vintage was made available through Negociants. She insisted that Cantemerle be included in the classification, presenting 40 years of records as evidence, proving that her wine commanded prices equal to or higher than those of the other Fifth Growths of 1855.
This re-inclusion in the classification marked one of the two significant changes to the classification. If the name Durfort sounds familiar, it’s because the family also owned Chateau Durfort Vivens in the Margaux appellation.
Until the late 1800s, Chateau Cantemerle enjoyed a prosperous period. However, the estate’s fortunes took a downturn in the late 19th century, marked by two devastating events. First, it suffered the most severe blow among all the classified growths of the Medoc during the phylloxera crisis. Subsequently, its vines were afflicted by downy mildew between 1879 and 1887. This double blow resulted in a more than 50% reduction in Chateau Cantemerle’s annual production, and the vineyard was in dire need of replanting.
In 1892, the estate changed hands as the descendants of the Villeneuve family, represented by Jeanne Armande, Baroness Charles d’Abbadie, sold Chateau Cantemerle to the Dubos family. The Dubos family, at that time, also owned Chateau La Tour de Mons, a vineyard in Margaux. Eventually, in 1981, Bertrand Clauzel sold Chateau Cantemerle to the SMABTP group.
Upon acquiring the estate, the SMABTP group undertook substantial restoration efforts. Approximately 40 hectares of vines, accounting for nearly 50% of the estate, required replanting. In 1999, the new owners expanded Chateau Cantemerle by purchasing 20 hectares of vines from Domaine du Moines Nexon.
Several enhancements were made to the cellars and winemaking facilities. Under the guidance of their new manager, Laure Canu, plans for a comprehensive renovation of the cellars are currently in the works.
Chateau Cantemerle: Vineyards, Terroir, Grapes, and Winemaking
The sprawling 108-hectare estate of Chateau Cantemerle comprises 92 hectares of vineyards, where Cabernet Sauvignon dominates, constituting 60% of the plantings. Merlot follows closely at 30%, with Cabernet Franc accounting for 6%, and Petit Verdot contributing 4%. Recent changes in the vineyards have seen an increase in Cabernet Sauvignon and a 5% decrease in Merlot.
However, the most notable transformation involved the vineyards’ composition, particularly in the late 1980s when Cabernet Franc made up a staggering 24% of the plantings. It was at the recommendation of Philippe Dambrine, the estate’s managing director until 2013, that Cabernet Franc was gradually reduced.
The estate aims to continue raising the percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon over time. On average, the vines are nearly 30 years old, with some Cabernet vines nearing 70 years of age. Vine density ranges from 8,400 to 10,000 vines per hectare, with younger vineyards at the lower end of the density spectrum, as they undergo replacement at 8,400 vines per hectare.
The terroir primarily comprises sandy and gravelly soils, and the vineyard can be divided into three distinct sections. Near the chateau, one encounters soils rich in pebbles, small rocks, and dark or black sand. To the east, closer to the water tower, larger stones and gravel intermingle with sandy terrain.
Further south, on the path leading to Bordeaux city, one encounters areas with smaller rocks and white sand. All four grape varieties are planted in each vineyard, with 56 separate parcels further dividing the estate. The most prized terroir, yielding Cabernet Sauvignon, is situated near the chateau, to the northwest. The majority of the vines are distributed across two communes, Macau and Ludon-Medoc.
The winemaking process at Chateau Cantemerle involves a combination of 24 conical-shaped wooden vats, 10 stainless steel tanks, and 7 cement vats. The tanks vary in size, with wood vats holding between 100 to 180 hectoliters, while the cement and steel tanks are larger. Malolactic fermentation takes place in vats, with young vines vinified in stainless steel.
The aging process occurs in 40% to 50% new French oak barrels, lasting 12 to 16 months, depending
Château Cantemerle, 33460 Macau
The wines
Tasting Notes
2009 Chateau Cantermerle
With a deep, inviting ruby hue, this wine entices with a bouquet of ripe red berries and dark cherries, gracefully woven with hints of cedar and subtle oak. On the palate, it offers a harmonious blend of blackcurrants, plum, and a touch of vanilla, all underpinned by well-integrated tannins. Its balanced acidity imparts freshness, while the finish is long and lingering, leaving an impression of elegance and finesse. 94 corked Points
