Romain Guiberteau never harboured aspirations to become one of France’s most esteemed winemakers. His journey into winemaking unfolded serendipitously, as he initially pursued a career in law, which ultimately failed to ignite his passion. Consequently, he abandoned his university studies in the early nineties.
Hailing from Bourges in the Loire Valley, Romain made a deliberate choice to relocate to Saint-Just sur Dive, near Saumur, where his family had a long-standing connection with a vineyard estate. Interestingly, despite owning vine holdings in sought-after regions, his family’s grapes were routinely sent to the local cooperative, an institution established by Romain’s grandfather.
However, Romain, a keen observer with a sharp intellect and ambitious spirit, was resolute in his determination to craft his own wine. Under the guidance of his neighbour, the late Dany Foucault from the esteemed Clos Rougeard, Romain immersed himself in the art of tending vineyards and, essentially, the craft of winemaking. He drew inspiration from another neighbour, the highly regarded winemaker Thierry Germain of Château des Roches Neuves.
While the renowned wine regions of France often dominate headlines, there is a growing trend among merchants and wine enthusiasts to explore smaller, traditionally less-prominent regions that are producing some of the most exciting wines in today’s market. A younger generation is revitalizing regions like the Loire, Beaujolais, the Jura, and Languedoc-Roussillon, infusing modern techniques and investments, and building impressive reputations for exceptional value and quality.
Domaine Guiberteau in Saumur is a prime example of this movement, increasingly making appearances at Napa Valley estate gatherings and earning spots on the menus of Michelin-starred restaurants in New York.
The roots of Domaine Guiberteau date back to the early 1900s, when Clément Manguin acquired a small selection of vineyards in the vicinity of Breze. However, it wasn’t until 1996, when Clément’s grandson, Romain Guiberteau assumed control of the estate, that its reputation began to ascend. Guided by the wisdom of Clos Rougeard’s Dani Foucault, Romain produced 5000 bottles in his inaugural vintage, which were swiftly snapped up. This success encouraged him to regain control of the vineyards that had been contracted to the local cooperative.
Today, the estate spans 9 hectares, with a roughly equal distribution of Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc grapes, primarily situated on the Breze hill. Romain transitioned the vineyards to organic practices in 2003, earning certification starting with the 2007 vintage. In a remarkably brief span of time, Domaine Guiberteau has evolved into one of the most sought-after estates in Saumur, with their wines in high demand and gracing the tables of France’s finest restaurants.
Critics frequently describe their wines as profound and marked by brilliant mineral character, exemplifying the essence of Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc. At their best, Domaine Guiberteau’s wines are deemed exceptional value for money. Their entry-level Saumur blanc and rouge wines are priced under £20 and offer delightful drinkability.
Romain has been at the helm of the domaine since 1996, painstakingly rejuvenating and restructuring the estate through sheer determination, courage, and relentless effort. Currently, Domaine Guiberteau boasts 7 hectares of Cabernet Franc and 7.5 hectares of Chenin, including prized parcels on the esteemed terroir of Brézé. The vines are impressively aged, with an average of 40 years and a significant portion exceeding 80 years.
Supported by a dedicated team of 12 individuals, Romain is consistently on the quest for perfection, producing some of the most sought-after wines in the Loire region. His red wines are characterized by exquisite fragrance, exceptional purity, supreme elegance, and a velvety texture, while his white wines exhibit majesty, precision, and impressive purity, truly expressing the essence of Chenin.
In essence, Romain Guiberteau has emerged as a distinguished winemaker, and his wines rightfully belong to the elite class of French wines.
Sometimes, after dedicating oneself to a particular pursuit for an extended period, the greatest gift is to experience the same sense of awe and wonder as a novice. The Brézé Hill in Saumur has provided such a revelation. Chenin Blanc wines from this terroir possess a unique character, unlike any others in the Loire. They are uncompromising, assertive, and strikingly mineral, evoking memories of our first encounter with Mosel wines. The esteemed Curnonsky, a Loire native, considered Brézé one of the most significant terroirs in the Loire Valley, and Romain Guiberteau’s ownership of prime land in Brézé has led to the creation of dry Chenins that exhibit punk-rock intensity and Bach-like profundity, creating a considerable buzz in the wine world.
Founded in the early 20th century by Clément Manguin, Romain’s great-grandfather, the domaine subsequently passed to Robert Guiberteau, Clément’s son-in-law, a skilled winemaker and one of the pioneers behind the cave cooperative of Saumur. In 1954, recognizing the extraordinary potential of the terroir, Robert acquired several hectares on the Brézé hill, including the coveted Clos des Carmes, hailed by the legendary gourmet Curnonsky as a grand cru of the Loire Valley. When Robert retired in 1976, none of his children wished to assume control, leading to the vineyards being contracted out.
In 1996, at the conclusion of a leasing arrangement, Romain Guiberteau, then struggling as a law student, made the pivotal decision to take charge of his family’s vineyards instead of renewing the leases. The following year, under the mentorship of Clos Rougeard’s Nady Foucault, Romain produced 5,000 bottles of red wine that quickly found eager buyers. This triumph solidified his commitment to a quality-oriented approach to winemaking and his gradual reclamation of grapes from the cooperative.
The domaine encompasses 9.4 hectares (with 12 hectares in total), featuring 7 hectares in the esteemed Brézé terroir. Slightly over half of the vineyard area is dedicated to Chenin, with the remainder planted with Cabernet Franc. The vine age varies from 4 to 80 years, with a significant proportion being old vines. In 2000, Romain initiated the transition to organic vineyard management, culminating in the AB organic certification in 2007.
2019 Saumur rouge
Most of the grapes for this wine come from Les Arboises, on the limestone-rich Brézé hill. 40% of the wine is aged in an oak tank and 20% in a barrel with the rest in stainless steel. The nose is complex with sweet cherry notes, and on the palate more cherries and wild strawberries, it has really fine tannins and the oak is integrated. This is a red wine that can cellar for 5-10 years easily. 90 Corked Points
2017 Saumur rouge Les Chapaudaises
great tension between the firm but ripe tannins and the intensely perfumed palate, which has notes of bramble, blackcurrant, and black olive with light touches of French roast. The balance is perfect, with the tannins providing support and structure without standing out. Mineral elements mark the finish. 92 Corked Points
2016 Saumur blanc Brézé
Brézé is a hill of tuffeaux sitting relatively high above the surrounding vineyards. Chalky limestone is mixed with clay and sand. This is a unique terroir for Saumur that gives the wines a purity and minerality not seen in the other wines. This is a wine to rival a fine white Burgundy, it has depth and complexity and the ability to age. 91 Corked Points
2015 Saumur rouge Les Arboises Brézé Monopole
2015 is still tightly wound and reflects the density and power of the vintage. Expect a fine, long, powdery palate loaded with ferrous, inky, spicy red and dark cherry-scented fruit and a long sappy close. An endlessly fascinating, unique Saumur and a wonderful alternative to young Burgundy. 93 Corked Points
