The region of Jura, located in eastern France, bordering Burgundy to the north and the Swiss frontier to the east, represents an underappreciated treasure within the world of wine. Despite its rather small size, it boasts a rich history, great variety in terroir, and unique wines to dazzle sommeliers and wine enthusiasts alike. The most famous subregions include Arbois and L’Étoile, both prized pieces of Jura’s heritage. Put together, they represent a complex heritage, a long-standing relationship with Indigenous grape varieties, and the perpetual customs that define its winemaking identity.
Exploring through the Ages: The Diversity and Fascinating Heritage of Jura Winemaking
The vast history of the Jura stretches back over an astonishing 1,000-year period, testifying to a very long and rich heritage. The very first vineyards in this picturesque area came into being during the times of the Romans, who appreciated the cultivation of vineyards very early. However, during the Middle Ages, the region really started to come into its own and be recognised in the wine world. Monasteries became significant guardians of knowledge and tradition in winemaking, perfecting various techniques with diligence, which are still in practice today. By the time the Renaissance era arrived, the wines of Jura were gracing the tables of royal courts and proved they could stand tall among Burgundy’s famous vintages, a proof of quality and reputation.
In 1936, Arbois obtained the prestigious classification of being one of the very first appellations d’origine contrôlées, or AOCs, of France—proof of its remarkable historical value to the wine industry. Shortly afterwards, L’Étoile followed in its footsteps, and thus both regions nailed down their critical positions as banner carriers for the entirety of the region, proving the quality of their wines.
Arbois: The Vibrant and Pulsating Core of Jura Wines
Arbois is almost synonymous with the luxurious wine of Jura. This northern subregion of the region certainly represents a true powerhouse of winemaking, housing some of the most iconic styles that Jura has to offer. The rolling hills, coupled with the limestone soils in this area, create an ideal environment that will be just perfect for the cultivation of a wide variety of grapes.
Savagnin This is generally considered the foundation grape of the Jura winemaking tradition. It is particularly noted for its use in the famous Vin Jaune, which has become famous for its peculiarities. The way that this very peculiar wine is made is by allowing the Savagnin grape to age under a veil of yeast, to which it owes a great deal of its personality. This is a nutty, oxidative wine with an exceptional ageing capability compared to many types of wines.
Poulsard A thin-skinned red grape, this variety owes its distinctive uniqueness to the Jura region. The most remarkable feature of the Poulsard grape is its capacity to yield wines delicate and pale, with charmingly enchanted aromas that bring to mind fresh red berries and fragrant wildflowers.
Trousseau This grape variety does incredibly well in the hottest microclimates that exist in the Jura region, where the climate conditions can be very ideal. Because of this, it gives full-bodied reds packed with personality, with appealing black fruit notes combined with a hint of spice that complicates the flavour profile.
Chardonnay This variety is so often blended with Savagnin in this region, but it is worth noting that Chardonnay from the Jura is known to be a very adaptable grape. Indeed, it displays exceptional quality and performance both for fresh styles, where brightness and acidity are emphasised and for oxidative styles, where its complexity and depth are pointed out.
It is also one of the most celebrated regions for its originality and great innovation in winemaking. This region is the most forthcoming towards biodynamic farming, which enables the artisans to be increasingly creative and experimental yet show respect for tradition passed down through generations. Be it the bottle of Vin de Paille, the lovely sweet straw wine, or a fresh Crémant du Jura, Arbois surely is the most compelling taste experience, quintessence, and soul of Jura.
L’Étoile: The Sparkling and Dazzling Jewel of the Jura Region
L’Étoile is the smallest subregion in the Jura area, named for the beautiful star-shaped fossils found abundantly in its unusual marl soils; many would insist it’s also the most bewitching. Charmingly placed on limestone slopes, this most delightful region continues to produce wines of great finesse and particular minerality; by all accounts, it is quite a special place among wine-growing areas.
Here, Savagnin and Chardonnay reign supreme, though winemakers often focus on oxidative styles. The best-known product of this subregion is:
Vin Jaune: The ultimate in Jura’s oxidative wines, aged in barrel for six years and bottled in the traditional clavelin.
Sparkling Wines L’Étoile’s Crémant du Jura is widely praised for its elegance and finesse, often comparing favourably with the best of Champagne.
Still Whites Here Chardonnay, with its own special complexity, has hints of green apple, hazelnut, and chalk. Winemaking at L’Étoile embodies the duality of the Jura: respect for heritage, combined with a forward-thinking approach.
The Enduring Legacy of the Grapes of Jura
The wines of Arbois and L’Étoile are more than just beverages; each one is a cultural artefact. They speak of the region’s resilience, an openness to the unconventional, and the deep connection with its land.
While at this point, Jura is undergoing a great renaissance in interest for its storied traditions, its wines—now exported to great markets around the world—are increasingly well known and appreciated for their distinct character and the skilful crafting that goes into their production. Apart from the wine enthusiasts, loads of curious travelers are quite eager and excited to taste the magic of Vin Jaune or Poulsard, making their visit truly memorable.
Notable Wineries
Domaine Stéphane Tissot (Montigny-lès-Arsures) www.stephane-tissot.com/
History: Founded in 1962, Domaine Stéphane Tissot became a benchmark and a point of reference for the whole world of Jura winemaking. Stéphane, who took over the reins of this estate during the 1990s, had already profoundly changed the estate into a very real trailblazer in the ranks of biodynamic practices and in the creation of wines fully expressive of terroir-driven characteristics. Vin Jaune Made from 100% Savagnin, it undergoes six years of aging under a veil of yeast, showcasing nutty, oxidative complexity. Single-Vineyard Chardonnays These wines express the unique reflection of specific microclimates and distinct soils found in individual vineyard parcels; to wit, fine examples would be the famous Les Bruyères and La Mailloche.
Domaine Overnoy-Houillon (Pupulin)
This domaine, established by the visionary Pierre Overnoy, had built its well-deserved reputation in regard to the commitment to the principles of natural winemaking. In the 1990s, Emmanuel Houillon joined the domaine, and since that time, he has been ardently dedicated to continuing the great legacy created by Overnoy by creating great wines according to the philosophy of minimum intervention in the winemaking process. Poulsard An elegant light red with crisp acidity and the aroma of strawberries and wild herbs. Savagnin An oxidative, natural wine that is the very expression of Jura terroir. Vin de Paille: A sweet wine produced using dried grapes, concentrated and luscious.
Domaine Berthet-Bondet (Château-Chalon) www.berthet-bondet.com/
History: Jean Berthet-Bondet founded this family-run estate in the 1980s, and it immediately became well-known for its commitment to Château-Chalon’s winemaking customs. The domaine is still thriving under the leadership of Hélène and Pierre Berthet-Bondet.
Domaine Macle (Château-Chalon)
History: Domaine Macle is one of the oldest family-run estates in the beautiful region of Jura, whose history dates back to the mid-19th century. In modern times, Jean Macle and his family have been acknowledged and celebrated for their exceptional standard of craftsmanship unmatched by peers in the industry. Chateau-Chalon Vin Jaune is a remarkable wine that possesses an incredible depth and an extraordinary complexity, frequently characterised as a liquid time capsule that captures the essence of its unique terroir and the passage of time within every sip.
Traditional Whites Their Cotes du Jura wines blend Chardonnay and Savagnin, with layers of minerality and oxidative notes.
Domaine de la Pinte (Arbois) lapinte.fr/
Domaine de la Pinte was founded in 1953 and for a long time held its head high as an opener and champion in the sphere of organic and biodynamic viticulture. With vineyards planted on dense blue marl, this estate produces remarkably expressive, sustainably crafted wines.
Domaine André et Mireille Tissot (Arbois) www.stephane-tissot.com/
This domaine, more commonly known as Domaine Tissot, has been one of the leading and most seminal forces in the world of Jura winemaking since its founding in 1962. Initially, André Tissot focused on using time-honored winemaking techniques passed down through generations. Over the years, with the far-sighted guidance and leadership of Stéphane Tissot, the domaine has undergone a dramatic shift by embracing biodynamics fully in the vineyards. Vin Jaune A rich and oxidative masterpiece.
Trousseau Singulier A single-vineyard expression of this native red grape. Savagnin Amphore Gravitated and aged in clay amphorae, this wine is about as natural as it gets.
Domaine Labet (Rotalier)
Domaine Labet has always been a family estate, proud of its heritage since its creation in the 1970s, establishing a deep-rooted tradition that has been passed down through generations. Julien Labet, the current winemaker at the estate, has been highly regarded and known for his innovative and creative approach to winemaking, especially in creating single-parcel Chardonnays that express the unique terroirs. Chardonnay En Chalasse A precise, mineral-driven wine that showcases Jura’s limestone soils. Savagnin Sous Voile This unique wine is aged under a film of yeast, which imparts an interesting effect that almost serves to bridge the gap between the crisp, fresh styles and the richer, more oxidative styles.
Domaine Rijckaert (L’Étoile) rijckaert.fr/en/
This estate was originally founded by Jean Rijckaert in the late 1990s with an emphasis on high-quality, small-batch production. It is located in L’Étoile and showcases the subregion’s limestone-rich terroir.
Domaine des Bodines (Arbois) LOOKS PERMANETLY CLOSED (Nov 2024)
HDomaine des Bodines is a fairly recent addition to the dynamic Jura wine scene, created in 2010 by the energetic couple, Emilie and Alexis Porteret. Their serious commitment to organic farming practices combined with low-intervention winemaking methods has built up a strong and loyal following from both enthusiasts and connoisseurs of wine.
