Sommeliers diary #33 17. September 2025

2014 Romanée-Saint-Vivant Mare Monge
The 2014 Mare Monge from Romanée-Saint-Vivant is a study in refinement, a wine that speaks more in whispers than in proclamations. The nose is lifted, all violets and wild strawberries, with a dusting of incense and sweet spice that seems to hover in the glass. There is a silken texture to the palate, that unmistakable Romanée-St-Vivant suavity, where red fruit glides seamlessly into notes of tea leaves, damp earth, and a trace of rose petal. The vintage gives it a cooler tone—there is energy here, a fine-boned acidity that keeps everything taut and precise. The finish lingers with a saline edge and a perfume that refuses to let go, elegant and understated, like a perfectly tailored suit that reveals more with every glance. 96 corked points


2001 Barolo Cascina Francia – Giacomo Conterno
A monument of Serralunga power, now entering its prime. The 2001 Cascina Francia is unapologetically Barolo: brooding at first, with a nose of dried cherries, leather, iron, and a haunting trace of tar and roses. With air, it unravels in layers—dark plum, balsamic herbs, truffle, and the faintest whisper of smoke. The tannins, once severe, have melted into a structure that is firm yet regal, guiding the wine rather than dominating it. There is depth without heaviness, authority without aggression. The finish is long and resonant, a chorus of earth, spice, and fruit echoing long after the glass is set down. This is Barolo as Giacomo Conterno always intended it: timeless, uncompromising, and movingly profound. 96 corked points


2003 Dom Pérignon P2 (Plénitude 2)
Time has given this Dom Pérignon a second life, and it announces itself with extraordinary presence. The 2003 P2 emerges with golden hues and a bouquet that is both opulent and precise—candied citrus, brioche, toasted hazelnut, and hints of saffron and smoke. On the palate, the wine balances richness and tension with remarkable poise: the vintage’s warmth delivers a generosity of ripe stone fruit and honeyed depth, while the extended lees ageing adds a chiselled spine of minerality and a wave of saline freshness. The mousse is creamy yet energetic, carrying the flavours across a finish that is expansive and resonant. This is Champagne in full voice—bold, confident, and commanding the stage with a kind of orchestral grandeur. 95 corked points

Leave a Reply