The enduring image of a wine and cheese evening usually features a glass of red wine next to a generous platter of cheeses. It’s a pairing so widely accepted that it’s rarely questioned. Yet, if you ask a sommelier, a food scientist, or even an experienced cheesemaker, you might be surprised by the answer: red wine is often the worst partner for cheese.
This isn’t just a matter of taste—it’s a matter of chemistry, biology, and centuries of culinary evolution.
Where the Myth Began
The notion that red wine pairs best with cheese likely emerged from post-war European dining culture, where red wines—often considered more prestigious—were associated with wealth, maturity, and masculinity. Cheese, being the finishing note of many French meals, naturally followed the main course, which was usually red-wine-friendly. Over time, this sequential structure created a perceived natural link between the two.
But dig deeper into traditional regional pairings, and you’ll find that cheese is more commonly paired with white wines, beers, or even spirits. In Alpine France and Switzerland, white wines such as Chasselas or Jacquère are the go-to partners for melted cheese dishes. In England, cheddar is as likely to be served with a pint of ale as with any wine. And in the Loire, goat cheese rarely shares a plate with red wine—dry whites reign supreme.
The Science of Taste: Why Red Wine and Cheese Often Clash
Understanding why red wine and cheese so frequently fall out of harmony requires a closer look at the biochemistry of taste:
Tannins vs. Dairy Fat
Tannins, found in abundance in red wine (especially Cabernet Sauvignon, Nebbiolo, and Syrah), are polyphenolic compounds that bind to proteins. They create astringency—that drying, puckering sensation in your mouth. While this works beautifully with meat (which is rich in muscle proteins), it doesn’t fare as well with cheese.
Cheese is composed primarily of milk fat and casein proteins, which interact with tannins in unpredictable ways. The fat can coat the tongue and mute the wine’s aromatic complexity, while the casein can cause tannins to precipitate, amplifying bitterness and harshness rather than softening it. The result? A chalky, metallic, or even sour clash on the palate.
Acidity & Refreshment
White wines tend to be more acidic than reds, especially un-oaked or lightly oaked styles. Acidity cuts through the richness of cheese, especially creamy or bloomy-rind varieties like Camembert or Brillat-Savarin. This acid-fat balance creates refreshment and resets the palate—an effect similar to the squeeze of lemon on rich food.
Think of how well Champagne or English sparkling wine works with triple crème cheeses: the acidity lifts the fat, and the bubbles scrub the tongue clean, preparing you for another bite.
Unami & Salt
Aged cheeses are rich in umami and salt. When combined with red wines that have high alcohol, low acidity, or pronounced oak (think New World Cabernet or Zinfandel), this can produce off-flavors—bitterness, metallic notes, or a cloying finish. Salt enhances bitterness in wine, especially if the wine isn’t structured to absorb it.
By contrast, wines with good acidity, minimal oak, and moderate alcohol can complement saltiness by highlighting sweetness or minerality.
Evidence from Sensory Science
Recent academic studies back up these sensory observations:
A 2012 study published in Food Quality and Preference tested 8 cheeses with 4 wines and found that white wines were consistently rated as better pairings than red wines across most cheese styles. The pairing success was attributed to better balance, aroma integration, and less bitterness.
🔗 Read the study abstract
A 2016 research project conducted by the Centre for Taste and Feeding Behaviour in Dijon, France, showed that cheese altered wine perception—increasing fruitiness and reducing astringency—but only in wines that weren’t overloaded with tannins.
🔗 Read more in the Journal of Food Science
📘 Also covered by NPR
In 2021, researchers in Spain published findings on volatile aromatic compounds, demonstrating how the lactic bacteria in aged cheeses interact with wine esters and aldehydes. The upshot? Cheese can enhance certain white wine aromas (like citrus and floral notes) but can suppress the more subtle aromatic profile of aged reds.
🔗 Link to related study overview
Rewriting the Cheese Pairing Rulebook
Let’s rethink pairings not by colour, but by structure and contrast:
| Cheese Type | Best Wine Pairing | Why It Works |
|---|---|---|
| Fresh Goat Cheese | Sauvignon Blanc, Picpoul de Pinet, Albarino | High acidity + citrus lift balances tangy curd |
| Brie, Camembert | Champagne, Cremant, Chardonnay (unoaked) | Acidity cuts cream, bubbles cleanse the palate |
| Aged Cheddar | Sparkling wine, dry Sherry, structured white Rioja | Complexity matches intensity, salinity balanced |
| Blue Cheese | Sauternes, Port, Tokaji | Salt-sugar contrast; sweetness tames pungency |
| Hard Alpine Cheeses | White Burgundy, Vin Jaune, Grüner Veltliner | Nutty + oxidative whites echo umami tones |
| Washed-Rind Cheese | Orange wines, Gewürztraminer | Texture + funk require complex but not overpowering partners |
In very rare cases even Sake or Sherry
