The ancient Pecorino variety is thought by ampelographers to have started off as a wild grapevine that grew in the Sibillini Mountains before being tamed for the purpose of making wine. The Pecorino grape and Pecorino cheese are unrelated, despite their namesakes.
Since the grape is grown in the mountains where sheep formerly grazed, ampelographers surmise that the name of the grape comes from the Italian word pecora, which means sheep. Locals in the Marche region told me that when the sheep passed through the vineyards, they would frequently eat the grapes.
The Romans regarded central Italy as being crucial to the manufacture of wine, particularly when it came to processing this particular grape. The second part of the 19th century saw a lot of documentation of this cultivation. In 1526, local rules known as the Statuti di Norcia (Umbria region) mandated that anyone causing harm to the Pecorino grape vineyards inside the Norcia territory would have to pay a fine of ten coins.
An extensive list of grape varietals grown in Italy was published in 1876 by the Ministry of Agriculture, Industry, and Commerce. The list listed the exact places where the majority of Pecorino grape was grown, which were Pesaro, Ancona, Macerata, and Teramo.
Viticulture
A local legend states that pecorino gets its name from the fact that sheep, or pecora, are known to consume grapes.
Pecorino is an early-ripening variety that, even in the absence of heavy winter pruning, tends to naturally generate modest yields. The variety has a great resistance to powdery and downy mildew and presents few viticultural dangers.
Wine regions
Italy cultivated 87 hectares (210 acres) of pecorino in 2000, primarily in the province of Ascoli Piceno in Marche’s Arquata del Tronto region. The first producer to use Pecorino extensively in his Offida DOC wines was Guido Cocci Grifoni, who also brought the variety to adjacent Ripatransone in the 1980s. In the Marche DOC wines of Falerio dei Colli Ascolani, Colli Maceratesi, and Offida, it is still an allowed variety as of right now.
Growing in the Marche region, Pecorino is also planted in the provinces of Chieti, Pescara, and Teramo. It is utilised in Controguerra’s sparkling wines as well as in a number of the region’s IGT wines. Liguria, Lazio, Tuscany, and Umbria are also home to plantings.
The Offida DOC, where varietal Pecorino wine can be produced
Pecorino, Trebbiano, Verdicchio, Malvasia, Chardonnay, Sauvignon blanc, Grechetto, and Incrocio Bruni 54 may all be included in the Maceratino-based white wines of the Colli Maceratesi DOC in the commune of Macerata in the Marche, as long as their combined percentage does not surpass thirty percent. The wine can be created as a passito dessert wine or as a still, sparkling spumante. For Pecorino to be used in DOC wines, it must be harvested at a yield of no more than 15 tonnes per hectare, and all varieties of the final product must have at least 11% alcohol by volume.
In Controguerra, the Trebbiano-based sparkling wines of the DOC may contain up to 30% Pecorino combined with Verdicchio and Chardonnay. A maximum harvest yield of 14 tonnes/hectare is allowed for grapes, and the final wine must have at least 11% alcohol by volume.
Pecorino can be used up to 25% in the Falerio dei Colli Ascolani DOC, along with Pinot blanc, Passerina, Verdicchio, and Malvasia (which can only be used up to 7% in the region’s Trebbiano-based wines). The maximum yield of grapes in this white-wine-only Marche DOC is 14 tonnes/ha, and the final wine must have at least 11.5% alcohol by volume.
DOCG Offida Pecorino can be made as a varietal in Offida as long as it makes up at least 85% of the mix; other non-aromatic local grapes can be used to fill in the balance. Here, the output of grapes is capped at 10 tonnes/ha, and the final wines must have a minimum alcohol content of 12%. On the other hand, Pecorino is now not allowed to be used in the DOC’s Vin Santo type wine, unlike Passerina, which is also farmed in the DOCG.
Notable Winemaker
Umani Ronchi (Marche)
Umani Ronchi, located in the Marche region, is a well-established winery known for producing a range of high-quality wines, including Pecorino. Their commitment to traditional winemaking techniques combined with a modern approach has garnered international acclaim.
Ciu Ciu (Marche)
Ciu Ciu is a family-owned winery in the Marche region with a focus on organic and sustainable practices. They produce Pecorino wines that showcase the grape’s vibrant acidity and aromatic complexity
La Valentina (Abruzzo)
La Valentina, situated in Abruzzo, has gained recognition for crafting expressive Pecorino wines. Their commitment to sustainable viticulture and precise winemaking has contributed to their positive reputation.
Illuminati (Abruzzo)
Illuminati is a historic winery in Abruzzo, known for its dedication to indigenous grape varieties. They produce Pecorino wines that reflect the region’s terroir and showcase the grape’s unique characteristics.
Tenuta Sant’Ilario (Marche)
Tenuta Sant’Ilario is a boutique winery in the Marche region that has received acclaim for its Pecorino wines. Their small-scale production allows for a focus on quality and attention to detail.
Collefrisio (Abruzzo)
Collefrisio is an Abruzzo-based winery recognized for its commitment to sustainable and organic farming practices. They produce Pecorino wines that emphasize the grape’s freshness and minerality.
Cantina Tollo (Abruzzo)
Cantina Tollo is a cooperative winery in Abruzzo that has been producing wines for over five decades. They are known for their Pecorino wines, which often represent good value for their quality.
Fattoria La Valentina (Abruzzo)
Fattoria La Valentina, located in Abruzzo, has gained attention for its Pecorino wines that showcase a balance between aromatic complexity and structural elegance.
Ciù Ciù (Marche)
Ciù Ciù, an organic winery in the Marche region, is recognized for its dedication to sustainable practices. They produce Pecorino wines with a focus on purity and expression of terroir.
Cantina Valle Tritana (Abruzzo)
Cantina Valle Tritana, situated in Abruzzo, is known for its commitment to preserving local grape varieties. Their Pecorino wines often embody the characteristics of the region.
Also see following winemaker for Percorino
Agricosimo, Barone di Valforte, Cantina Miglianico, Casal Thaulero, Cascina del Colle (Aimè), Ciavolich, Contesa, Costantini, Fontefico, Il Feuduccio, La Valentina, Marchesi di Cordano, Novaripa, San Lorenzo, Talamonti, Tenuta Cerulli Spinozzi, Valori, Cirelli, Citra
