Perhaps the most famous Sangiovese wine in Tuscany is Le Pergole Torte. Interestingly, although being produced in a well-known appellation like Chianti Classico, it does not bear the DOCG “fascetta” mark or the traditional black rooster logo.
Chianti Classico’s original recipe called for a combination of wines. The main grape was and still is Sangiovese; but, Canaiolo, a local red, was blended with white Malvasia Bianca Lunga and white Trebbiano Toscano. These were the historical field grape varietals, frequently co-planted and harvested as a whole. That was the custom, which was later codified into law in 1967 with the introduction of the first Chianti Classico DOCG.
Giving the Sangiovese some company was necessary at the time—possibly more so than custom, as a kind of risk management in the event of illness or bad weather. It was a completely different way of thinking, and up until it didn’t, it made sense.
The Montevertine estate’s proprietor, Sergio Manetti, was a forward-thinking and meticulous grape farmer. Sergio had to continue without the support of his peers when he suggested that Sangiovese could be produced as a single varietal wine in the 1970s and 1980s because the Chianti region was not even close to wishing to abandon long-standing customs.
To put it in perspective, it was a time when winemakers were beginning to look beyond tradition and try forth new ideas, and Chianti was experiencing a bad reputation. Some imported innovative techniques from overseas, while others planted foreign grapes alongside their own grapes. Large barrels or cement vats were replaced by French small barrels. Thus, Sergio was not the only one considering a move. He abandoned the Chianti appellation in 1981 to focus only on producing high-quality wine under his own tiny farm’s brand. His efforts were rewarded, as his pure Sangiovese “Le Pergole Torte” rose to fame.
Since Sergio’s death in 2001, his son Martino has carried on his father’s legacy.
The regulations governing Chianti Classico were ultimately modified in 2006, eliminating the possibility of using white grapes in the mix due to the modernization of the region’s vineyards, improved vineyard management, and ongoing efforts to find superior Sangiovese clones. Pure Sangiovese can now be used to make Chianti Classico. One could argue that it is 25 years too late, since the appellation would have benefited from the notoriety that a single winery achieved on its own.
