Located equidistant between Champagne, Sancerre in the eastern end of the Loire Valley, and the Côte d’Or, the secluded region of Chablis is situated on the banks of the small river Serein in the Yonne département. A few kilometres away, the Paris-Lyon autoroute cuts through the fields of wheat, maize, and pasture, leaving Chablis in a somewhat forgotten location. The town itself, sharing the same name, is a tranquil and rural place, resembling more of a large village than a noteworthy city. It lacks remarkable structures or anything that sets it apart from numerous other small towns in the fertile regions of France. However, Chablis distinguishes itself through the production of a single noble grape that thrives in its ideal soil—the Chardonnay. The unique soil composition consists of a peculiar and distinctive blend of chalky limestone and clay, resulting in one of the world’s most renowned dry white wines. Chablis’ Chardonnay produces a wine distinct from the Chardonnays crafted 150 kilometres to the south in the Côte de Beaune.
Over a century ago, prior to the arrival of the devastating phylloxera epidemic, the Burgundian vineyards extended uninterrupted from Sens through the Auxerrois down to Montbard and Dijon in the Yonne, covering an expansive area of around 40,000 hectares. While much of the resulting wine was likely ordinary and consumed directly from the cask in Paris and other cities in northern France, Chablis and the local vineyards benefited significantly from their proximity to the capital. However, the phylloxera louse, arriving later than in the Côte d’Or, began seriously affecting the Chablis vines in 1893. Coupled with increased competition from the Midi region once the railway system connecting Paris with the south was completed, most of the vineyards in Yonne vanished. The decline continued due to the impact of World War I, economic stagnation, and rural depopulation. By 1945, an exceptionally severe frost wiped out the entire potential harvest, resulting in no bottles of Chablis produced that year. The total vineyard area dwindled to less than 500 hectares. Even as late as the harsh winter of 1956, locals could be found skiing in February on what is now the grand cru vineyard of Les Clos.
Since then, however, there has been a gradual and accelerating increase in the total vineyard area, reaching 4,755 hectares in 2005. With the development of more efficient methods to combat frost damage, improved control over other potential yield threats, and the cultivation of prolific Chardonnay strains, production has risen disproportionately. Average annual production skyrocketed from around 24,000 hectoliters in the 1960s to over ten times that amount in the early 2000s.
In 2003, the local Bureau Interprofessionnel declared that the authorized production areas covered as much as 6,830 hectares. If one assumes that the extra land is marginal, it is worth noting that the potential grand cru and premier cru figures are only 2 hectares higher than the levels recorded in 2001. Therefore, it remains uncertain whether these theoretical additional 2,500 hectares will truly produce exceptional Chablis or merely yield a pleasant, unoaked Chardonnay that is hardly distinguishable from a Mâcon.
SOIL
The heartland of the Chablis region is the southwest-facing slope to the north of the town. It is on this slope that all the grands crus are located, forming a continuous line alongside some of the finest premier cru vineyards. These renowned vineyards grow on crumbly limestone soil, which is either grey or white and is named after Kimmeridge, a small village in Dorset. In other areas, particularly at Beines to the east and in the communes of Maligny, Villy, and Lignorettes to the north, the soil appears different, displaying a more sandy colour and a slight variation—Portlandian limestone rather than Kimmeridgian. There has been significant debate regarding whether the wines produced from Portlandian soils are as good as those from Kimmeridgian soils. At times, this debate has led to heated disagreements and even lawsuits between proponents of strict Chablis delimitation and those in favour of expanding the vineyards. Those who emphasize the importance of Kimmeridgian soil argue for its overriding significance, while expansionists believe that extending the Chablis vineyards to suitable slopes of Portlandian soil would alleviate pressure on the existing vineyard and enable the entire community to benefit from the worldwide reputation of Chablis wines. Each grower holds their own opinion and is likely a member of one of the two rival producer groups known as syndicates. The Syndicat de la Défense de l’Appellation Chablis, led until recently by William Fèvre of Domaine de la Maladière, supports the strict delimitation of Chablis. The second group, La Fédération des Viticulteurs Chablisiens, is led by Jean Durup of Domaine de l’Églantière in Maligny. Following a decision by the INAO (Institut National de l’Origine et de la Qualité) in 1978, which diminished the significance of soil in favour of microclimate and aspect during the consideration of a further revision of the Chablis area, the expansionists gained momentum. Since then, the total vineyard area has tripled, and new premier crus have emerged. One cannot deny that when tasting the new premier cru Vau de Vey alongside other premiers crus, such as Vaillons or Montmains from the same grower, it becomes clear that it can be equally excellent. However, it remains to be seen whether this expansion of the vineyard area will help avoid the extreme price fluctuations that Chablis has experienced in the past. In my opinion, greater stability is crucial for the ongoing commercial success of Chablis wine.
Furthermore, a higher and more consistent level of quality is also essential. Recent vintages have been favourable, but approximately half of the vineyards, particularly in plain Chablis, consist of young vines, and production figures tend to be much higher than in the Côte de Beaune (nearly 59 hl/ha in 2005). Consequently, chaptalization is often necessary, even in the best vintages, to reach the limit.
THE PROBLEM WITH FROST
The Chablis vineyards are situated in close proximity to the northernmost limit for successfully growing vines. The vine will not begin developing in early spring until the average temperature reaches 10°C, and the fruit must ripen before the leaves start falling in autumn. Therefore, the threat of frost is a significant concern. Chablis, particularly the lower slopes near the river Serein, is located in a frost pocket. The grand cru vineyards are the most vulnerable, but even on the higher plateaux used for generic Chablis or plain Chablis, young shoots are at risk from the time they emerge from the buds in late March until mid-May. The slope’s exposure and angle are critical factors, and growers employ various techniques to protect their vines.
The most primitive method, now discouraged by ecologists, involves placing small fuel burners or paraffin chaufferettes in the vineyard. Growers must be in the vineyard, usually by three o’clock in the morning (as the coldest part of the night is typically just before sunrise), to light the burners, which must be refilled in preparation for the following night. More advanced automatic fuel-heating systems, connected to nearby tanks, and infrared devices have been installed in some vineyards. Although effective, these methods are costly in terms of fuel and labour.
Another technique is the aspersion method. It requires setting up a system of water sprinklers in the vineyard, connected to a water supply (such as a large reservoir outside Beines that serves over 80 hectares of vines, mainly in the premier cru Fourchaume). When the temperature drops to zero, the system is activated, spraying a continuous fine stream of water on the vines, similar to sprinkling a garden. Water freezes at 0°C, but the vine buds remain unharmed until the temperature drops below minus 5°C, as the buds are protected by a snug coating of ice. Implementing the aspersion method is costly and difficult to maintain, so it is primarily found in the grands and premiers crus.
Some Chablis producers argue that subjecting the embryonic leaf cluster to ice for 5 or 6 hours a day, potentially for a month or more, may not be beneficial. However, despite the challenges of keeping the nozzles unblocked, this technique has gained popularity since its introduction in the late 1970s. Although installation costs are high and maintenance is crucial, operating expenses are minimal.
EDF (the French nationalized electricity company) has conducted trials with wineries like William Fèvre and Long-Depaquit using a new anti-frost concept. The idea involves running an electric wire along the rows at the level of the embryonic bunch. When the electricity is activated, it creates a cocoon of heat measuring approximately 10 centimetres in diameter, protecting the embryonic harvest. According to EDF, this method is cost-effective and easy to maintain, despite the initial installation costs. However, ecologists express concerns about the presence of electricity potentially causing mutated and abnormal growth, posing infinitesimal cancer risks.
Regardless of the methods described above, there is another problem with frost protection solutions. Frost typically occurs during high barometric pressure and clear skies, often coinciding with a full moon. Not only is frost a threat in early April, but it can still occur four weeks later when the shoots can be as long as 10 centimetres, with the fruiting buds outside the cylinder of protection.
An alternative method introduced in 1995 involves covering the vines with plastic sheeting. The sheeting contains holes at intervals to allow sunlight penetration and prevent excessive humidity. This method effectively creates an artificial greenhouse effect, which is costly but effective. Interestingly, this technique is allowed in Chablis. However, using plastic sheeting on the ground in vineyards elsewhere, except to prevent excessive rain in September, has been declared illegal by the INAO as it is considered “contrary to nature” and destroys the “uniqueness of the local terroir.”
THE GRANDS CRUS
Presently, the Chablis area boasts almost 4,800 hectares of vineyards in production. Among these, just over a hundred hectares are designated as grand cru vineyards, forming an undulating slope facing southwest and directly overlooking the town.
When viewed from the town, the grands crus, from left to right, are Bougros, Preuses, Vaudésir (which includes La Moutonne of Domaine Long-Depaquit), Grenouilles, Valmur, Les Clos, and Blanchots. It is widely acknowledged that Les Clos is the finest grand cru, producing the most powerful and long-lasting wines with exceptional intensity and rich flavours. Valmur and Vaudésir are also highly regarded, with Valmur requiring time to age. Preuses and Grenouilles yield more floral and delicate wines, while Bougros and Blanchots are considered less refined. Opinions on these grand crus differ, and it is challenging to find a grower who can provide an entirely objective assessment.
Former owner of the négociant Regnard, Michel Remon, who did not own any vineyards himself, shared his views on the grand crus. According to Remon, Blanchots produced the most rustic wine, and Grenouilles lacked class, being considered a grand cru only due to its proximity to the others. In his opinion, Les Clos was energetic and had the most nerve, Vaudésir was round and rich, occasionally leaning toward heaviness, Preuses was similar but with less style, and Bougros produced wine that was somewhat like Grenouilles on its lower land but more similar to Grenouilles on its upper slopes. Remon awarded first prize to Valmur, describing it as a feminine wine with elegance and great depth.
Retired but recently prominent grower William Fèvre categorized the grands crus into three groups. He placed Les Clos at the top, describing it as intense with a long-lasting palate and toasted, gamey flavours. Bougros was considered tender and slightly sweet, with elements of chocolate and less steeliness than Preuses. Grenouilles and Vaudésir fell between the two categories, with delicate, floral aromas and a hint of violets.
Christian Moreau simply stated that Les Clos, Valmur, and Vaudésir were the three finest climats, and the others did not warrant grand cru prices. He believed Les Clos was a combination of Vaudésir’s finesse and Valmur’s structure. Jean-Pierre Simonnet, a significant négociant-éleveur, found the quality-price ratio for all the grands crus to be impractical. He argued that these wines were challenging to buy, finance, or sell. Simonnet now focuses on premiers crus instead.
