Sommeliers Diary #59

2023 Vistamare Ca’ Marcanda – Gaja

The 2023 Vistamare is a wine of light, air, and coastal precision. The nose is immediately expressive, opening with white peach, citrus blossom, and ripe pear, followed by subtle notes of fennel, wild herbs, and a gentle saline breeze that evokes its proximity to the sea. There’s a clarity to the aromatics that feels effortless and sunlit.

On the palate, the wine is vibrant and fluid, its Mediterranean warmth balanced by crisp acidity and a finely textured mineral line. Flavours of stone fruit and citrus unfold cleanly, accompanied by a faint herbal edge that adds complexity without weight. The blend’s components feel seamlessly integrated, creating a sense of movement rather than density. The finish is refreshing and lightly savoury, lingering on citrus peel and salt-tinged stone. A beautifully poised coastal white — expressive, modern, and quietly refined.


2022 Chablis Grand Cru Bougros Domaine William Fevre

The 2022 Bougros from William Fèvre offers a generous yet finely structured expression of this south-facing Grand Cru. The nose is layered and composed, revealing ripe lemon, yellow apple, and white peach, interwoven with oyster shell, chalk, and a faint smoky nuance. There is ripeness here, but it’s framed by unmistakable Chablisien minerality.

On the palate, the wine shows breadth without heaviness. The texture is supple, almost creamy, yet anchored by fresh acidity that keeps the wine lifted and precise. Flavours of citrus, stone fruit, and subtle spice unfold in a broad, confident arc, finishing with a saline, mineral persistence that speaks clearly of Bougros’ sun-warmed slopes. A Grand Cru that balances generosity with tension, offering both immediate pleasure and depth.


2018 Barolo Pajana Ginestra Domenico Clerico

The 2018 Barolo Pajana from Domenico Clerico is expressive and finely detailed, offering a more nuanced, elegant take on the power of Ginestra. The nose opens with sour cherry, wild strawberry, and dried rose, layered with hints of liquorice, spice, and crushed stone. There is an inviting clarity to the aromatics, combining lift with depth.

On the palate, the wine is focused and finely contoured. The fruit is bright and precise, framed by firm yet well-shaped tannins and lively acidity that give the wine a long, linear drive. Savoury notes of herbs and mineral tones emerge with air, adding complexity to the red-fruit core. The finish is persistent and structured, marked by cherry skin, spice, and a touch of iron. A Barolo of poise and quiet intensity, built for graceful evolution.


2016 Brunello di Montalcino Pertimali Livio Sassetti

The 2016 Brunello from Livio Sassetti is a beautifully classical expression, combining depth, clarity, and restraint. The nose is complex and refined, offering sour cherry, dried plum, tobacco leaf, and rosemary, with a subtle note of blood orange and warm earth beneath. Everything feels composed and quietly confident.

On the palate, the wine is linear and poised, its red fruit carried by bright acidity and finely grained tannins that give structure without austerity. Flavours unfold with precision — cherry, spice, and savoury herbal tones moving in harmony. The finish is long, fresh, and mineral, leaving a lingering impression of stone and dried flowers. A benchmark Brunello, elegant and enduring, with many years of graceful evolution ahead.

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