2017 Chassagne-Montrachet – Benoît Moreau
In recent years, Benoît Moreau has quietly emerged from the shadow of his family domaine to establish a style that feels distinctly his own: focused, restrained and resolutely terroir-driven. The 2017 vintage in Chassagne-Montrachet, marked by healthy yields and classical balance, offered an ideal canvas. Rather than chasing richness, Moreau leaned into tension and precision — a decision that defines this bottling.
The wine opens with a clear, articulate nose of lemon peel, crisp pear and white blossom, underscored by a subtle flinty reduction and the faintest touch of almond from carefully judged oak. On the palate, it is neither broad nor heavy, but shaped by line and structure: citrus and orchard fruit are carried by bright acidity and a distinctly chalky, saline core. The finish is persistent and composed, leaving notes of citrus oil and crushed stone that speak more of place than winemaking.
This is not a flamboyant Chassagne. It is a measured one — confident, mineral and quietly authoritative, reflecting both the vintage and a grower increasingly comfortable in his own voice.
Sommelier diary #88
