Domaine FL is a unique blend of tradition and innovation, originating from Anjou. Philippe Fournier played a pivotal role in bringing together two distinct halves of the domaine in the early 21st century. The historic part of the estate is situated on the northern side of the Loire River, encompassing the esteemed Château de Chamboureau in Savennières. This venerable property, along with Domaine du Closel and Domaine aux Moines, stands as one of the original grand dames of the appellation. On the southern side of the river lies the younger segment, comprising vineyards in the Anjou and Coteaux du Layon regions. These vine parcels were acquired, at least in part, from the original Jo Pithon estate. Notably, Philippe financed the construction of a modern winery on the road leading out of Rochefort-sur-Loire, providing the present-day team, led by Philippe’s son Julien Fournier, with state-of-the-art facilities.
This profile delves into the rich history of the domain. The Anjou segment has a turbulent past, as the Fournier family gained control of the Anjou vineyards when they were relinquished by Jo Pithon. In contrast, the Savennières portion has a long and storied history, intertwined with some of the appellation’s most renowned names. In this account, we will first explore the former before turning our attention to the latter on the following page.
PHILIPPE FOURNIER AND JO PITHON
Before Jo Pithon partnered with stepson Jo Paillé to establish Pithon-Paillé, he operated his own eponymous domaine. During this period, Jo attained cult status in the Loire Valley wine scene, earning the adoration of many. His reputation was built on his unwavering commitment to viticulture and the creation of exceptional, characterful wines. I vividly recall the taste of his 1997 Coteaux du Layon Beaulieu, a wine that encapsulated the essence of the appellation. Unfortunately, alongside the admiration from Anjou enthusiasts, Jo also carried a burden of debt due to his uncompromising standards. Philippe Fournier, the chairman and managing director of Afone, a telecommunications company headquartered in Angers, stepped in to provide much-needed financial support.
In 2005, Philippe acquired the Jo Pithon estate, with Jo himself staying on board to provide his expertise in viticulture and winemaking. Initially, Fournier’s intention seemed to be building upon Jo’s groundwork and reputation. The following year, Philippe expanded the estate by acquiring Château de Chamboureau on the other side of the river, indicating his readiness to invest, expand, and elevate the domaine. The enlistment of Stéphane Derenoncourt as a consultant in 2007, Derenoncourt’s first foray into predominantly white wine domains, further exemplified Fournier’s commitment. I first encountered Fournier’s wines during the Bordeaux 2007 primeurs, where they were presented for tasting at La Grappe, a venue showcasing wines from all the domains where Derenoncourt consulted. I have also had the opportunity to taste the wines at Domaine de L’A in Castillon. There was a time when I encountered Fournier’s wines more frequently in Bordeaux than in the Loire Valley, but this is no longer the case, as Derenoncourt is no longer involved with the domain.
Domaine FL
Rte de Beaulieu, 49190 Rochefort-sur-Loire, France
THE VINEYARDS
Distributed on the banks of the Loire on the appellations; Savennières, Roche aux Moines, Anjou Blanc, Anjou Villages, Coteaux du Layon, Chaume 1er Cru and Quarts de Chaume Grand Cru.
Composed mainly of metamorphic rocks, our basement, rich and diverse, let’s express a complex and aromatic wine.
Located on the heights of Savennières, the plot of La Croix Picot is based on a soil of sandstone shale and wind-blown sand.
The wines
2018 Le Croix Picot
The 2018 Domaine FL presents a radiant golden hue in the glass. On the nose, it offers an enticing bouquet of ripe stone fruits, particularly apricot and peach, interwoven with hints of honey, white flowers, and a touch of minerality. The palate is beautifully balanced, featuring a harmonious interplay of luscious fruit flavours and refreshing acidity. Layers of pear and citrus zest come to the fore, complemented by subtle notes of almond and a delicate flintiness. The finish is long and elegant, leaving a lingering impression of its refined complexity and finesse.
